2010年10月9日

Viktor & Rolf-2011 S/S ready to wear







 Viktor & Rolf這兩位來自荷蘭的小淘氣,總在每一季挑戰人們對於服裝的想像極限,不管是10年春季的雪紡紗挖洞禮服,又或是秋冬的服裝肢解秀,V&R已經是「驚喜」的代名詞。

開場以一件無限繁殖的袖口及領口的襯衫洋裝,以一條條藍色繡花布條組成高聳的肩膀,成功吸引了現場觀眾的目光。







11年的V&R舞台採用幾何型的女子對話形象,感覺得出設計師對於男女之間的對話故事。


 男生的大襯衫搭配淺藍色的煙管褲,底部則是襯衫袖口,細節相當逗趣。



女人穿著男性襯衫總是性感,(大家還記得凱莉在影集中愛上了俄羅斯藝術家嗎?我總記得她起床後,所愛的人正在工作的那份尷尬)這件衣服提昇了這個想像,底部的小開岔,將性感更加昇華。





 Lindsey Wixson穿著紅色襯衫洋裝相當可愛,與她氣質相輔相成(一種前衛可人的氣質),連續的袖套設計相當逗趣。


 脖子上的領口裝飾暗示性的勾勒出男性線條,V&R的設計總是帶有一種極簡的效果,垂墜的洋裝、慵懶的蓬鬆度,引誘出女性的隨性姿態,再搭配上條紋褲襪,相當令人驚艷。



 其實這件短褲(長褲?)在我看了影片之後,還是不懂這件褲子到底是怎麼回事,到底怎麼穿的呢?(不過顏色很好看 時尚是膚淺的......)



中間留白,兩側抓皺,如同糖果紙包裝般的甜蜜設計,線條褲襪如同牛奶糖般流洩包裝裝雙腿。



連身褲一直從10年春夏流行到11年,上衣的橘色三角形設計相當摩登。

 
黑色羽毛洋裝,走動時舞動搖擺相當俏麗。







 蓬鬆的上衣側邊混和另一側的緊身設計,相當特殊。






運用強烈的黑白布條效果,帶出斑馬紋的抽象演繹。




 說到女人,怎能缺少充滿爛慢氛圍的婚禮呢?但對V&R來說,婚紗如果只是一般的拖地長裙那你可就大錯特錯!


 帶有透明感的襯衫上身,配上絲容般光澤的下褲(不是瘦子可別挑戰!)頭上頂著抽象的頭紗面具,簡約、時尚。

斜肩洋裝融合了今年的蕾絲元素,將蕾絲運用的相當有個性。


V&R很喜愛運用切割的元素,挑戰技術分割,讓衣服不再只是衣服!(那是?)


 
 皺褶重疊的上身搭配如花片般的長禮服,相當典雅優美。






 每次到了結尾V&R總是會推出龐然大物來謝幕,這次也不例外,運用層次堆疊,展現出立體雕塑的禮服。




 
為了要寫V&R的11年春夏,讓我想了很久,畢竟他們不是我一般喜愛的簡約優雅風格,
他們比較偏向是一種意識、 一種氣氛,是藝術跟時尚的完美演繹。

對我而言,這場秀不能用一般的商業態度去看,以市場來說的確是難以接受,但這就是時尚!越能張揚自己, 越能夠展現自己的風格與態度。








圖片來自:Style.com


























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